The intimate setting and delectable fare at the Charlotte Hotel in Onancock, Va., snared these diners two nights running.
by Wendy Mitman Clarke
We were in for the duration. That much was obvious as Johnny and I sat at the cozy bar in the Charlotte Hotel and Restaurant in Onancock, Va. Hubby and I were spending two nights at the hotel, and our plan was to eat out the first night, then try the hotel restaurant the second. But one look at the menu and it was obvious we weren't going anywhere.
What exactly brought us to this conclusion? Perhaps the appetizers--how was I to decide among the oyster and caviar pastry cups, the seared scallops with a spicy peanut spring roll, the veal ravioli, or the trout over cucumber lemon relish? And then came the entrees. Johnny swooned when he saw the cowboy steak--a grilled ribeye with tarragon shallot butter, mashed potatoes and creamed spinach.
I ordered a crisp spinach salad garnished with candied bacon and baby bell peppers stuffed with goat cheese. Of the appetizers, the seared scallops won hands down; plump and tender, their light flavor contrasted wonderfully with the peanut spring roll accented with watercress and cilantro. For my entree I had filet mignon with port wine sauce and scalloped potatoes, while Johnny savored that ribeye; both were tender, with the sauces serving as a pleasant accompaniment.
We came back the second night for the seafood--local rockfish on a bed of seasoned rice and oysters for Johnny, and for me, the roasted salmon on a bed of mashed cauliflower with a spring salsa verde of peas, shallots and mint. The flavors and textures stood on their own yet worked perfectly together.
And dessert. The apple crepe was off Johnny's plate before I even got a bite. There was a nice creme brulee, and a chocolate cheesecake (I passed). But, oh my, the homemade ice creams! The strawberry was rich, creamy, full of fruit, and the cinnamon was pure enchantment--cold on the tongue and warm in the memory, conjuring up images of my grandmother's kitchen.
Phillip Blane is the restaurant's chef. He had long dreamed of having his own kitchen in a small hotel in a waterside town, and now he starts his day talking to local watermen and farmers about what foods are available. Fresh herbs, eggs, fish, shellfish and the juicy, sweet tomatoes that grow like weeds here . . . all make it to the menu, which changes every two weeks, depending largely on what's fresh.
Unlike some places, where the portions seem to shrink in proportion to the number of ingredients, Blane's plates are well endowed. The wine list is thoughtful (check out the selection of port for after dinner). The room itself is intimate and low-lit, inviting quiet conversation under soft watercolors gracing the walls. And if the local clientele is any indication, Blane's dream come true is working. We weren't the only ones who couldn't resist feasting two nights in a row.
The Charlotte Hotel and Restaurant on North Street is a short walk from Onancock's waterfront and is open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday 5:30-9 p.m. through Labor Day (closed Monday and Tuesday off-season). Also open for breakfast Tuesday through Friday 8-10 a.m.; Saturday and Sunday 8-11 a.m. Breakfast $6-$10; dinner $19-$26. Major credit cards accepted. Dinner reservations suggested. 757-787-7400.
[08.05 issue]
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