

Three Annapolis eateries offer ravenous travelers (some with children!) all they want or all they can eat. Either way, no one leaves hungry.
The Corner Cafe by Jane Meneely
From the Annapolis city dock, walk a block up Randall Street toward the Naval Academy. There you'll find the Corner Cafe, a sweet little place with Old World charm, a New World menu and down-to-earth cooking. Clint and I stopped there for breakfast a few weeks ago. We were looking for something to eat--not a "dining experience" and the entailed expense--and this unpretentious little cafe caught our eye.
We sat in a smallish dining area at a tiny table for two next to the window. The decor was understated but attractive: pedestal tables flanked by comfortable folding chairs, fresh flowers, a long deli counter where some especially yummy-looking cheesecakes and other goodies were on display, and in the corner an upright piano. A waitress appeared almost instantly and brought us our coffee--the first order of business. The piano, she told us, was played by anyone who cared to tickle its ivories.
"Often?" we asked. "Evenings, usually," she answered, "but go right ahead."
We studied our menus instead. For breakfast (served Thursday through Sunday) we could order eggs--Benedict, Florentine, or scrambled. If we liked, the scrambled eggs could come stuffed into a burrito with bacon, ham, cilantro, salsa and cheese. High on the deli counter were bagels, muffins and pastries. That was it--on that morning anyway. We saw that the Sunday "Crab Brunch" offered even more variety, with crabmeat on just about everything, but still no pancakes, French toast or waffles (which was a good thing).
Clint and I ordered the eggs Florentine, mine stuffed with crab, and then we asked for some fresh fruit. Our waitress brought us a plate heaped with chunks of sliced melon (cantaloupe and honeydew), plenty for the two of us. The eggs (two apiece, served on toasted English muffins) were on the hard side (which, frankly, I prefer--maybe the cook could sense that), but the spinach was savory and, for my part, there was plenty of crab. Our waitress offered more coffee, and we had a delightful breakfast. We felt like we were tucked away in our own private enclave, far from the pulse and throb of the busy harbor. Had we wanted even more seclusion, we could have chosen one of four tables in the cafe's tiny back courtyard, completely surrounded by ivy-twined brick walls. No water view, but no view of the world either.
Only a few other tables were occupied when we were there (late-morning), but I eyed an elegant Greek salad go by and a hearty looking Greek gyro. Both glistened with crisp fresh ingredients. A glance at the lunch menu showed us a list of fairly conventional sandwiches along with avariety of gyros, pita pizzas, wraps and salads (all available for carry out). Kinda made me wish we would be in town longer to come back for more--maybe we'd catch someone at that piano.
The Corner Cafe, corner of Prince George and Randall streets, is open Monday through Wednesday 11 a.m.-8 p.m.; Thursday through Sunday 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Breakfast $6-$10; lunch and dinner $4.50-$9. Credit cards accepted. 410-280-1956.
Carrol's Creek by Darlene Kavanaugh
I'm more likely to be found working behind a computer at theChesapeake Bay Magazineoffice, but when I was invited to try the Carrol's Creek brunch, I jumped at the opportunity. My friend Dave, his teenage daughter Libby and I went on a warm and humid August Sunday to sample what the hostess had told me was the best brunch in town. The Carrol's Creek deck overlooks the docks of the Annapolis City Marina, across Spa Creek from the Annapolis harbor, so we decided to dine outside to enjoy the view as we savored our meal. (Spa Creek was once called Carrol's Creek, after Annapolitan Charles Carroll, who signed the Declaration of Independence. Looking beyond the Spa Creek bridge we could see his house next to the St. Mary's Church.)
The brunch selection (all-you-can-eat) was extensive--breakfast favorites, lunch and dinner entrees, pastries and desserts lined the serving tables. It was hard to know where to start. I wasn't much interested in breakfast, so I went after the steamed shrimp, some pasta and tortellini, and had the chef carve me a slice of rare roast beef--I passed on the chicken teriyaki, the pork barbecue, the poached salmon, the ham, the lamb. . . . Get the picture? Everything I tasted was delicious, but I was really headed for dessert. Talk about a kid in a candy store. There were tiny bite-size tarts topped with single pieces of fruit, heavenly rich brownies, fresh apple cobbler, fruit trifle and cakes--carrot, double chocolate, cappuccino, chocolate banana and Georgia peach. I didn't try them all, but the ones I tried were wonderful.
Meanwhile, Dave and Libby wanted more traditional breakfast fare, but their first choice was a dud. They'd ignored the eggs Benedict and gotten poached eggs prepared on a bed of corned-beef hash. Too dry, they said, and they moved on to the fresh waffles served with hot strawberry and blueberry sauce. That was definitely a winner in their book, and they scarfed it down with helpings of sausage and bacon on the side. Dave even raved about the coffee--quite a compliment from a hard-core coffee drinker with Ecuadoran roots. Libby loved the chocolate chip cookies (who said you can't have dessert with waffles?).
Our experience was a pleasant one (although Dave kept getting attacked by mosquitoes--we'll take an indoor table on our next visit). We were a bit surprised to find that beverages were not included in the buffet seating price (not even that great coffee), but we had our choice of a complimentary Bloody Mary, mimosa or flute of champagne to enjoy with our meal. The taste, selection and preparation of the food was, on the whole, excellent, and the service was prompt and courteous. Add to that the inviting atmosphere and the incredible view, and I'd have to say that, best brunch in town or not, I'm coming back.
Carrol's Creek is located just behind (and above) the Annapolis City Marina, a privately owned and maintained facility where diners can rent a slip for $10/hour (two-hour minimum). Dock space is limited; reservations are suggested (410-268-0660). The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner; Sunday brunch is served 10 a.m.-1:30 p.m., dinner from 3-9 p.m. Lunch $10-$15; dinner $20-$32; Sunday brunch $18.95 per person ($9.95 for children under 10). Credit cards accepted. 410-263-8102.
The Boatyard Bar & Grill
by Wendy Mitman Clarke
Back in 6 B.C. (Before Children), I was a big brunch fan. What can beat cool, sparkly mimosas, heaping mounds of eggs Benedict and a fat newspaper on a lazy Sunday morning? Two bouncing kids can beat it, that's what--to a pulp. But they're getting old enough to handle the manners and patience required for public dining, and I've had six years of pent-up brunch hankerings, so off to the Boatyard Bar & Grill we headed on a Sunday morning in August.
The Boatyard doesn't serve brunch exactly--they serve breakfast on weekends, along with their combination lunch-dinner menu. Breakfast selections included French toast dipped in batter with Grand Marnier, roast beef hash topped with two poached eggs and horseradish on the side, eggs Benedict and the Boatyard combo--two eggs with bacon, ham, sausage or a 10-ounce New York strip. The mimosas were indeed sparkling, and the kids immediately tackled their menus with crayons, coloring in the sailboat (with a fork for a mast) and a powerboat flying the Boatyard burgee and the MRE (Maritime Republic of Eastport) sticker. They could not believe their eyes when, just minutes after being seated, this nice lady (the waitress, that is) delivered a plate full of cranberry and blueberry muffins and four bowls of fresh mixed fruit--which come with all the entrees. The muffins, soft and wonderfully crumbly, come from a bakery in Baltimore, said Tammy Reece, the Boatyard's manager. "You can't beat 'em," she said. "I think they use pure butter."
We placed our orders, inhaled our muffins and watched the bustle around us. The biggest complaint about the Boatyard is that it's noisy--which, when you have kids, is ideal. It's a big, open space, bright and full of local art, photos, flags and the names of all the local boatyards, past and present, painted across the main beam over the bar. On this Sunday morning it was only moderately loud, and the busy open kitchen area gave the kids plenty to watch while we waited (not long at all) for our meals.
Buttermilk pancakes arrived for the kids, huevos rancheros for me and a build-your-own omelette for Johnny, which he requested be constructed with bacon, pepper jack cheese, green pepper and diced tomatoes. It was about two inches thick, filled with crisp, warm veggies and melted cheese. It vanished before I could ask him how it tasted. My huevos rancheros was a huge plate of food--two poached eggs over a crisp tortilla, mounded with salsa, guacamole and sour cream, the entire plate ringed in sliced jalapenos. Oh, it was decadent, and delicious. But the hash browns, which came with both adult meals, stole the show. "Butter," Reece said when I asked how they got the hash browns so moist and yet crisp at the same time. "Salt, pepper and butter."
Theoretically, we could have had dessert. Physically, it wasn't possible. The kids are still talking about those muffins, though, so I'm pretty sure it won't be six whole years before we're back for another Boatyard brunch.
The Boatyard Bar & Grill, at Severn Avenue and Fifth Street in Annapolis's Eastport section, is open daily for lunch and dinner; breakfast on weekends is served until 1 p.m. Breakfast $5.95-$7.95 (kids' breakfasts are $3.95); lunch and dinner (same menu) $7.25-$21.95. Credit cards accepted. 410-216-6206.
[10.03 issue]
|