 Canvasback Restaurant and Pub in Cambridge, Md., offers atmosphere and great food near the waterfront.
by Jane Meneely
photography by Vince Lupo
ThePride of Baltimore IIghosted into Cambridge last fall as it wound its way north from the Great Schooner Race, and my old friend andPridecaptain Jan Miles was aboard along with the newPrideco-captain, John Beebe-Center. The circumstance begged for celebration, for lifting a private toast and tucking into a well cooked meal. I'd heard about Canvasback, the newish restaurant and pub on Race Street, and I was eager to try it. So, with the two captains and my new singing buddy Jim in tow off we went.
Canvasback occupies the back of an old storefront with wide display windows filled with gourmet tidbits and kitchen gadgets for sale. To the right as you enter are racks of wine (also for sale), and beyond that is the the restaurant's small, open kitchen. Here you can read wine labels to your heart's content and surreptitiously watch the chef go through his paces (on this night sous-chef Jordan Ray was at the helm). To the left are racks filled with quality condiments, chunky cottage crockery and shiny stainless steel gizmos enough to make a galley slave's heart go pitty-pat. Behind the kitchen you'll find Coolahan Pub, complete with dart board and baby grand piano (blues on Wednesdays). The ubiquitous TV was tuned to football, and the music seemed a bit loud, but we sidled up to the polished bar and ordered a round of drinks to start. The bartender must have tuned in to who we were because within minutes the music changed from hard rock to hornpipes-though still kinda loud. When we were ready to eat, a waitress led us around the corner to a row of tables, tucked away from the lively bar scene.
 The menu listed a variety of dishes, from land and sea. There was crab but no crabcakes, surprisingly. Instead, the selections ran the gamut from a hot goat-cheese salad to veal medallions with fig and almond cream sauce. Filet mignon, grilled salmon, rockfish, scampi and plenty of pasta selections filled in the gaps. We ordered a set of appetizers: olive tapenade and a hot crab-and-artichoke dip. Both came with rice crackers-a nice touch, we thought, none of us being fans of white flour. The olives, chopped and easy to scoop, were salty and nice, served with goat cheese crumbled on top and a cluster of red grapes and white beans on the side. As for the crab dip, ample flakes of crab meat (not lumps, by a long shot) were layered over a cheesy substrata, warm enough that it didn't cool down too quickly, but not too hot to eat. It was good, but the olive dish was the more memorable. Our server also placed a plate of sliced whole grain (!) baguettes on the table, along with dipping oil and butter.
Between bites, Captain Jan regaled us with the details of the schooner race, and by the time thePridewas safely berthed in Portsmouth, our food had arrived. I'd ordered the sauteed soft crab, served on a bed of fettuccini. Two of the tasty critters lay on my plate, crisp on the edges and sweet inside. The fettuccini was light and flavorful, its sauce delicate enough to complement the crab. I didn't do the pasta justice (the white flour thing), but my few bites made me realize that this was a top-flight kitchen. Nothing heavy-handed here.
Captain Jan had ordered the smoked duck breast; Jim went for the lamb. Both were served with sauteed squash and a mound of garlicky mashed potatoes. The duck was nicely done, as was the lamb (rare as ordered). Both men said the subtlety of the sauces served to enhance rather than mask the flavor of the meat-another nice touch. Captain John, meanwhile, dug into a fresh Caesar salad which, he said, was lovely.
The servings here were ample-European portions, nicely presented and not overwhelming. We all cleaned our plates (except for my fettuccini) and felt completely satisfied. But the desserts begged to be sampled, so we ordered two: White Passion, a subtle white chocolate and passion fruit mousse capped with pistachio ganache, and "Cappuccino," a coffee mousse served with a striped joconde biscuit and chocolate ganache with coffee glaze. I have happily noted the trend toward lavish confections designed to crown a meal, and these were right in the vanguard. "Over the top," is how Captain Jan put it. Needless to say, four forks made short work of the two desserts.
Canvasback Restaurant and Pub is located at 420 Race Street. From Cambridge's municipal yacht basin, walk up High Street, then left on Race for a block and a half. The restaurant is on the left. Open daily except Sunday for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Lunch $7-$25; appetizers $10-$13; entrees $18-$26; desserts $8. Major credit cards accepted. 410-221-5177.
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