 Pirates Cove on the West River offers great food indoors and out--plus a rockin' tiki bar.
by Jane Meneely
The Inn at Pirates Cove Restaurant and Marina is one of the oldies. Although the name has grown trendier as time has passed, the place itself has sat on the edge of Galesville, Md., for ages--since 1947, I'm told, when the Smith family first started serving crabs and oysters to visiting boaters. Although it's changed hands several times (and no longer serves steamed crabs), it remains a popular spot for boaters looking for good food, hospitality and, on weekends, kickin' live music at Big Mary's Dock Bar.
We popped in last spring--on Mother's Day, in fact. I'd called ahead for dining reservations--no problem there. And we would need a slip as well, I said. The marina doesn't take reservations, I was told; but if we hailed the dockmaster as we came in, he'd be able to fix us up.
The day was absolutely gorgeous. My friend Paul and I met up with Nancy and Bob Shoemaker and their daughter Kate at the Pocahontas Marina off Selby Bay. There we boarded their little Bertram,Shoe In, and headed south. When we got inside the West River, we hailed Pirates Cove. The dockmaster answered almost immediately, and in no time we were snug and headed for the restaurant. This is an older, shambling kind of building, true to its wharfside history and completely unpretentious. Rooms have been added on and porches enclosed over the years to create a warren of dining areas and alcoves. The walls are adorned with nautical decor. And three fireplaces promise cozy winter meals when the waterfront has grown bleak and cold.
On this bright day, we were handed brunch menus and offered an outside table with an umbrella. The options were typical--a lot of seafood, eggs Benedict, omelets, that sort of thing. The eggs Oscar, for example, was the classic Benedict with asparagus and lump crabmeat added--yummy; the chicken salad (their own recipe) was delightful: big chunks of chicken in a zesty sauce; the cream of crab soup, a house specialty, was rich and creamy, though the Maryland crab soup was a bit too spicy for my taste. And it all arrived promptly--a pleasant surprise given the holiday crowd. Neither did we feel rushed. We chatted and savored the view along with our food. Of course, beyond Sunday brunch, Pirates Cove slows to a less hectic pace, serving lunch and dinner. Seasonal seafood remains a specialty: rockfish, oysters and an array of crabcakes, crabby sauces, crab fillings, crab toppings. . . .
 Big Mary's is outside, adjacent to the main building. With its coconut fronds, pub food and schmaltzy drinks, it's a favorite with the singles set. It can get pretty loud when the music is playing. Those opting to spend the night at the dock or on the hook nearby will be relieved to know that the musicians knock off at 10 p.m. (music inside goes till midnight). Big Mary's closes the last weekend of September and reopens in May. By that time, this mom might be ready to swap brunch for a couple of bar stools and sip rum under the West River stars.
The Inn at Pirates Cove offers limited overnight accommodations (five rooms; off-season pricing begins at $60) as well as transient dockage ($36/night includes electric; 410-867-3600; channel 16). The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner, plus Sunday brunch; Big Mary's is open Wednesday and weekend nights in season. Lunch $8-$12; dinner entrees $18-$25; Sunday brunch $7-$12; Big Mary's $6-$10. Weekend reservations recommended. Major credit cards accepted. 410-867-2300.
[10.05 issue] |