 Once a private club, the Wellwood Inn in Charlestown, Md., now serves great food to all comers.
by Jane Meneelyphotography by Michael Wootton
You can't see the Northeast River from the Wellwood anymore. The Charlestown Marina sits between it and the water and today, a chilly winter Sunday, the view is crammed with boats on the hard. But the inn is a quick stroll from the marina docks and nearby launch ramp, and the ample grounds surrounding the facility offer plenty of room for al fresco dining in season--without the noise of passing traffic or the rumbling blast of boat exhaust. I was there with photographer Mike Wootton for the all-you-can-eat-oysters, which are served up on Sunday evenings through March, and was happy to forgo the river view for that of a real wood fire crackling in the fireplace.
The inn itself, once a private club frequented by world-class movers and shakers (like Teddy Roosevelt and his chums), reflects an old elegance. Its dark wood paneling and heavy antiques reminded me of the rustic country inns of Ireland. Add to that the exuberant bonhomie of innkeeper Larry Metz, who seated us, and Mike and I felt right at home.
We'd hardly had time to settle in when our server arrived with a plateful of oysters Rockefeller (actually separate from the all-you-can-eat deal) and another of oysters on the half shell. "They aren't local," he said ruefully. We suspected as much--the Bay oyster harvest is punier than ever--but we appreciated his honesty and dug into the imported bivalves with gusto. The Rockefeller recipe, we learned, came from Metz's mother Celia, who passed it on to the present head chef, Mike Huff. I was prepared for a mouthful of spinach and cheese with the barest hint of mollusk. Instead, I got the best of both worlds--a lightly spiced flavorful treat that brought out the oyster underneath. And I had more than one, though I generally prefer my oysters plain. Then I dug into the half-shell platter, which came with plenty of lemon wedges and cocktail sauce. No grit, no shell--alas, no pearls either.
Following the oysters, we decided to sample the Maryland crab soup and the crab bisque. The soup was interesting--different from the usual, but it didn't ring my bell. It was too peppery for my taste, and had a lot of what I think was Old Bay and Tabasco sauce. But it was chock full of veggies in a thin tomato broth, and I can name several of my hot-tongued friends who would probably think it was the bee's knees. The bisque, on the other hand, was thick and creamy (thicker than usual, but not overly) with a welcome dose of sherry. It was delicious but filling; it and a salad would make an ample meal.
While we could have had more oysters--fried, stewed or steamed--I ordered crabcakes as my entree; Mike went with the prime rib. Sheer quantity of food alone should have made us happy. The portions were huge. Two fist-size crabcakes arrived on my plate, along with sides of steamed broccoli and creoled squash. The crabcakes (I could only eat one) were well seasoned and full of firm, succulent crab. The broccoli was . . . well, steamed broccoli. But the creoled squash was a delightful blend of sweet, peppery veggies, and not in the least mushy (something that happens easily to squash). Mike's prime rib was a hearty hunk of tender beef done as he had asked: medium well. He took a healthy chunk of it home with him.
For dessert, I tried the bread and sweet potato pudding, served with a dollop of orange sherbet. I loved it. The sweet potato added a savory zest to the bread, and the orange flavor complemented it well. Mike's Chocolate Decadence cake was the usual heart attack on a plate, a chocoholic's dream, to be sure.
The truly charming thing about the Wellwood, though, was the pervasive congeniality of the place. Owner Larry Metz sets the tone by chatting with his diners and often seeing personally to their needs. It was obvious when Mike and I were there that several patrons were regulars--one gentleman had even been a member of the old Wellwood Club, which shut down several decades ago. And they apparently return often. I overheard a fellow at a neighboring table ask about "that brownie I had last night" when his server asked him about dessert. I told him to go with the bread pudding.
The Wellwood Inn is located behind the Charlestown Marina in Charlestown, Md. Dockage for diners (including overnight stays) is available at the marina, but arrangements should be made through the Wellwood. For those preferring land accommodations, the inn offers three guesthouses ($100Ã.‚¬"$125/night). In season, a water taxi runs between Charlestown and Northeast, Md. The inn is open Wednesday through Sunday noon to 10 p.m. Beginning in April, it will also be open on Tuesdays. Appetizers $5Ã.‚¬"$23; salads and sandwiches $6Ã.‚¬"$12; entrees $9Ã.‚¬"$28. Major credit cards accepted. 410-287-6666; www.wellwoodinn.com
[03.04 issue] |