 The Wild Duck Cafe at the Maryland Marina is under new management and looking good.
by Jane Meneelyphotography by Vince Lupo
Maryland Marina, on Middle River north of Baltimore, is a huge expanse of boats and boaters, and the wide open deck at the Wild Duck Cafe overlooks it all--and the river beyond. When Paul and I arrived one spring evening, the sky had already turned a deep velvet blue, with only a wisp of color from the lingering sunset. The deck was packed with sweatshirted diners reveling in the opportunity to dine al fresco despite the growing chill, but we latecomers decided that indoors might be the better option. We were promptly ushered into the nonsmoking dining room, sealed off from the smoky bar (and its full screen TV) by glass walls. We felt a little bit like hamsters, but were grateful for the smoke-free air. Our waitress took our drink orders (and our dinner order; we already knew what we wanted) and disappeared with a knowing smile. We were there, apparently like everyone else, for the crabcakes and crab imperial.
The Wild Duck is a popular hangout for marina patrons and nearby residents, who manage to keep the place going seven days a week, year-round. It has the expected assortment of burgers, wraps and sandwiches, soups and salad (very fresh!), and a long list of appetizers that range from things like clams casino and oysters Rockefeller to onion rings and potato skins done every which way. We've tried them and they were tasty enough, but nothing to write home about. Hot and ample sums it up.
We don't go to the Wild Duck for burgers (though many do). We favor the raw/steamer bar with its succulent selection of oysters on the half shell, steamed shrimp and mussels. And when we're really on a tear, we order the steak or seafood. They cook up a melt-in-your mouth filet mignon here (their medium rare is exactly how I like it--socialist pink). The crab imperial is excellent, by itself or amply slathered on shrimp, rockfish or flounder. The imperial is also topped with a seafood meringue--a tasty "sauce" that forms a light crust. The crabcakes are huge (you get two; I call them Dolly Partons), but they can be hit or miss. We've been there when they were magnificent, made from big savory chunks of backfin and little else; other times they've come laced with filler. But even then the portions were so big that it was easy and satisfying enough to pick the backfin out. Entrees are served with a choice of two sides (watch out for canned veggies; the waitress will tell you what's fresh if you remember to ask). The desserts look good but can be a little disappointing; to the proprietor's credit, though, many are made with low-fat ingredients, like gelato and sorbet.
The Wild Duck Cafe is terrific for casual dining or a cold beer after a day on the water. The food is generally good; the bar food tends toward superior if you like burgers topped with all sorts of stuff. The view is great, the atmosphere friendly and the service quick, given the crowd. It may be on Middle River, but there's nothing middling about it.
The Wild Duck Cafe is located at the Maryland Marina on Frog Mortar Creek, off Middle River. There is free dockage for diners in front of the cafe; overnight slips are available at the marina for $1.50/ft (410-335-8722). The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner (bar closes at 2 a.m.); a breakfast buffet is served on weekends during the boating season. An outdoor tiki bar is open May through Labor Day, and occasionally there is live music. Raw/steamer bar $6-$19; appetizers $5-$11; burgers and sandwiches $5-$13; entrees $14-$28; breakfast buffet $7. Major credit cards accepted. 410-335-2121.
[06.06 issue] |