EASTERN BAY » We were sailing to Byzantium, no country for old women, and we thought we'd find it somewhere on Eastern Bay, between Tilghman Point and Poplar Island. Byzantium Bound 

POTOMAC RIVER  » A family cruise from D.C. to Solomons wold have been just lovely had the wind gods not intervened.  Mother Potomac

THE ENTIRE BAY » Nica Waters and her husband, Jeremy, seize the day, pack up their two children and sail down the Bay from Deltaville, VA to the islands. Eight months and 2,000 miles later, they have a surprising new friendship and stories enough for a lifetime...or at least until the next time. There and Back Again

THE ENTIRE BAY » The author puts together a winning, if occasionally unwilling, team for a trailer-boating tour of the Bay. Part One | Part Two 

THE ENTIRE BAY  » Wherein the author takes us on a field trip full of sciencey stuff and a pinch of magical thinking.  Chesapeakeology 101


BALTIMORE & ANNAPOLIS, MD » When the Volvo Ocean race comes to Baltimore and Annapolis this month, we boaters and other ordinary mortals can get in on the fun. Here's your guide to the hot tickets. Hot Times in the Cities

BALTIMORE, MD » Bright lights, Big City? Yeah, maybe, but Baltimore's Inner Harbor is also a big shoreside playground-ask any kid who's been there. Playground on the Patapsco 

BALTIMORE, MD  » A three-part invention: Our editors reminisce about their favorite boating trips to Baltimore. Charm City Memories  

BETTERTON & TOLCHESTER BEACH, MD » The Eastern Shore retreats of Betterton and Tolchester Beach rose and fell with the Bay's steamboats. One survived and one didn't. The Last Resorts

BROOMES ISLAND, MD » Not counting Len's Marina and the ever popular Stoney's Seafood and Crab House, there's not much there there on the little Patuxent River peninsula that calls itself Broomes Island. And that, we all know, is a good thing. A Quiet Place 

CAMBRIDGE, MD  »  There is much to learn in this vibrant, reawakened city on the Choptank . . .  but, oh, what a learning curve! A Cambridge Education   

CANTON, MD  » Under the watchful eye of a winking Baltimore icon, Canton is a flourishing, revitalized neighborhood with a long history, full and happy present, and a bright future in the land of pleasant living.  Mr. Boh's Neighborhood

CRISFIELD, MD »    With the seafood industry in decline, Crisfield, Md., may soon profit from a different kind of catch. Nowhere to Go but Upscale

CHESAPEAKE BEACH, MD » Winter cruising is always a gamble, but a quick sail to Chesapeake Beach on Petrel turns into a win-win situation. Lure of the Beach

CHESAPEAKE CITY, MD » For decades downtrodden, Chesapeake City has transformed itself into one of the niftiest little boating towns on the Bay. Canal Town

CHESTER RIVER, MD » Having grown up on the Chester River, the author set out to see how time has treated it, and what he found was pleasantly familiar. Chester River Recon

CHOPTANK RIVER, MD » Diverse communities and an amazing assortment of creeks, coves and harbors stretch between Sharps Island Light and Cambridge. It isn't a question of where to go, but how much time you have.  Choptank Circle

DEALE, MD » Though it's close to D.C. and home to more than a few Beltway fugitives, the insular hamlet on Rockhold Creek is still a great place to go nowhere and do nothing. Such a Deale 

DENTON, MD  » Wendy Mitman Clarke explores quiet Denton, MD, the once-thriving steamboat port that has made great tridesi n recapturing and showcasing its history.  Denton Redone

THE DIVIDING CREEKS » Visiting the three Dividing Creeks on the Bay proved a daunting logistical challenge. But the hassles were well worth the trip. The Great Divides

EASTON, MD » It's all the way up the Tred Avon River, but if you're okay in five feet of water and don't mind a one-mile walk or bike ride, the jolly old town of Easton can be your oyster. By Boat & Bike to Easton

EASTPORT, MD » Eastport, Annapolis's little sister, has a mind and spirit all her own. Eastport Exposed
FAIRLEE, WORTON, AND STILL POND, MD »  Clustered along the eastern edge of the Bay, Fairlee, Worton and Still Pond creeks make for one great weekend getaway.   Charmed by the Three Sisters
HAVRE DE GRACE, MD » Havre de Grace, Md., the often bypassed little city at the tip of the Bay, once again thinks something good is going to turn up. Gracious Host

HAVRE DE GRACE, MD  » The annual Duck Drop in Havre de Grace, MD turned out to be harmless enough. But the idea of dropping a duck... Well, this author simply had to investigate. Birds of a Feather

HONGA RIVER, MD » On the tail of an April northeaster, a spring shakedown cruise to the Honga River--where folks around the waterfront are always happy to chat, rain or shine--made the bad weather tolerable. Song for the Honga

HOOPER ISLAND, MD » Two old friends reunite for a downwind sailing cruise on the middle Bay. What more could a girl ask for? Wind, wine, crab imperial? Perfect. Wanna Go Sailing? 

KENT COUNTY, MD »   Take a tour this eastern shore destination. Sponsored by Kent County Tourism.   County of Kent

KENT ISLAND, MD  » A visit to Kent Island doesn't have to mean loud boats and rowdy parties on theNarrows. In fact, staying there can be fairly quiet and civilized if you spend your days riding the island's serene bike trails, sipping scotch on the dock at Kent Manor Inn, and exploring historic Stevensville. Crossing Kent

MAGOTHY RIVER, MD » Wedged between the controlled chaos of Baltimore and Annapolis, this river isn't the most chic, the most scenic . . . or the most anything. It's just a lot of good things to a lot of good people. Magothy in the Middle

MAGOTHY RIVER, MD » The Magothy is paradise for boaters living along its shores-a backyard playground for everything from gunkholing to waterskiing to weekend raft-ups. Backyard Boating

MATTAWOMAN CREEK, MD » Three cheers for the shallow treasures of Mattawoman Creek, off the upper Potomac. A Place to Go Pleasantly

MACHODOC RIVER & NOMINI BAY » Many of the reasons to visit the Lower Machodoc and Nomini Bay on the Potomac River have recently disappeared, but does that mean it's now an un-destination? We find out! The Un-Destination

MIDDLE RIVER, MD » Bristling with boatyards and lined with homes, Middle River is in the middle of it all . . . yet, somehow, away from it all. Somewhere in the Middle

MIDDLE RIVER, MD » Middle River can be a destination in its own right, with enough marinas, restaurants and hidey-holes to keep any boater happy, even if she's in her own backyard. Destination Middle River?

NATIONAL HARBOR, MD »  Two travelers on a small sailboat try to put the whole National Harbor experience into perspective. The Next BIG Thing

NORTH EAST, MD » The town at the top of the Bay has gone through a sea change, and whether you're there for a poker run or history, you'll find something to fit the bill. North by North East

OXFORD, MD » Now three centuries old, Oxford remains a compelling and hospitable port of call. Brigadoon with Crabcakes 

OXFORD, MD  » Small as this 300-year-old Eastern Shore town is, t has more than its fair share of boatyards, yacht brokers, inns, and restaurants--but not much else. And for fans of sitting and watching the world go by, that is a very good thing. Watching Oxford

PATUXENT RIVER, MD » A week's cruise on the Patuxent River produces enough good memories to tuck into your pocket for rainy days to come. A Pocketful of Miracles

PATUXENT RIVER, MD  » Up the Patuxent and through the woods, to Madison's house we go... Following the British invasion route of 1814. A Large Fleet, Stalking Through the Wood

POCOMOKE CITY, MD » Score! beauty, nature, good facilities, and friendly folk. Jody Argo Schroath finds a trip up the Pocomoke River touches all the bases. Home Plate on the River of Dreams

POTOMAC ISLANDS  »  Author and old college buddy travel to Potomac River islands: St. Clements, St. George, Cobb. Island Times

PORT DEPOSIT, MD » A jaunt across the Bay and up the Susquehanna River took a pair of intrepid explorers as far as Port Deposit, Md., where granite looms large but slips are hard to come by. Port of Promise

RHODE RIVER, SOLOMONS, MD » Wherein the author takes us on a field trip full of sciencey stuff and a pinch of magical thinking. Chesapeakeology 101

ROCK HALL, MD » With its 300th birthday just around the corner, Rock Hall, Md., has reinvented itself as a busy boating community. Steady as She Grows

ROCK, STONEY, & NABBS CREEKS, MD »  Just down the river from Baltimore, the neighborhoods of Rock, Stoney, and Nabbs creeks are longtime boating playgrounds.  The Creeks Around the Corner

SASSAFRAS RIVER, MD »  The best recipe for a perfect fall cruise on the Sassafras River? One part patience and one part good company! Wait for It...

SMITH ISLAND, MD » A timeless rhythm of repetition and change reveals itself during a visit to the island's annual Camp Meeting. Smith Island Now, Still, Ever

SOLOMONS, MD » This popular snowbird stopover was just south enough for a would-be cruiser. The Solomons Solution 

ST. MARY'S CITY, MD  » A cruising couple visits St. Mary's City, the first capital of Maryland, establishing in 1634, abandoned in 1695, rediscovered in the 20th century. Lost & Found

ST. MARY'S RIVER, MD » A summer day on the St. Marys River, where the only impediments to heaven are heat and hunger. Cruising in the Company of Saints

ST. MICHAELS, MD » Both boaters and landlubbers alike will find the charms of St. Michaels irresistible. Nobody Doesn't Like St. Mikes

TAYLORS ISLAND, MD » You can visit Taylors Island, Md., and the Little Choptank for the bald eagles, sika deer and a view that just won't quit. But leave time for soft crabs and karaoke, too. Taking the Long View

VARIOUS »   Four writers visit memorable cruising haunts of Dick and Dixie Goertemiller. Cruises Down Memory Lane

WEST RIVER, MD » A little investigation goes a long way when it comes to getting to know the West River and its quiet, storied towns of Galesville and Shady Side. West River Story

WHITEHAVEN, MD  » In Whitehaven, MD on the Wicomico River, making a good life is not a forgotten art. All in Good Time

WYE RIVER, MD » Their fall cruise started with four days of pouring rain and freezing wind.
Lucky for them, they were exploring the generous Wye River, whose natural beauty can shine through just about anything.
The Natural


CARTER CREEK, VA » The Tides Inn still wears the crown for hospitality on Carter Creek, down in Rappahannock country. Good Tidings

CAPE CHARLES, VA »  Cape Charles, Va., has been working for years toward a comeback. Now, despite a few rough edges, it's all starting to pay off. On the Horizon

CAPE CHARLES, VA »  With new docks on the harborfront and a can-do attitude, Cape Charles, Va., takes a big step toward prime time.  Becoming Cape Charles

CHICKAHOMINY RIVER, VA » Deep, dark and still mysterious, the Chickahominy River reveals itself as a beautiful and isolated tributary of the James River. No wonder John Smith liked it. Deep Water, Deep Past

CHICKAHOMINY RIVER, VA »  The Chickahominy River remains largely, and refreshingly, the same as it was 400 years ago, when Captain John Smith explored its shores. Jewel of the James

COAN RIVER, VA » Whether you're seeking world travelers, long memories, quiet sunsets or just a really great deli sandwich, the lovely and peaceful Coan River delivers. Another Day in Pleasure Bay

COLONIAL BEACH, VA » It takes more than a huge fire and a devastating hurricane to keep Colonial Beach down. While its raucous days of oyster wars and casino piers are long gone, Virginia's old Potomac getaway is back in style. Just ask the ghosts. The Beach Bounces Back

CORROTOMAN RIVER, VA » The Corrotoman River offers countless quiet places to drop your hook, do some great sailing, fishing or whatever floats your boat . . . or clears your head. A Restful River 

DELTAVILLE, VA  » Most boaters know Deltaville, VA for its sheer "boatiness"--good location, easy in and out, a bazillion marinas..., but a visit to the maritime museum shows you where the town's heart is. Deltaville on Exhibit       

DISMAL SWAMP CANAL, VA » The Great Dismal Swamp Canal has carried boats between Virginia and North Carolina for centuries. But dollars are tight and this legendary waterway may soon close. One Last Run

FORT MONROE & PHOEBUS, VA » Historic Fort Monroe and its neighboring community of Phoebus, Va., face a wave of change as the Army closes the base there. Locals want to be sure the fort's enduring story doesn't get lost in the backwash. The Future of Freedom's Fortress

GUINEA, VA » There's no real town called Guinea, Va. There's just a vast stretch of marshes, a misty history and a community of people who live a singular life on the Bay. A Guinea State of Mind 

GWYNN'S ISLAND, VA  » A long-awaited journey to Gwynn's Island gives the author the chance to retrace the steps of the most famous Gwynn's Islander and get acquainted with this island out of time. Now he wonders, did Lord Dunmore have to get there through the Hole in the Wall too? Sir Hugh's Beautiful Island

HAMPTON, VA » In which our heroes, in the guise of bawdy balladeers, advance on Hampton, Va., in time to witness the defeat of nefarious and sundry pirates, buy T-shirts and crash one helluva a dock party. In the Company of Pirates

HISTORIC TRIANGLE, VA »  A visit to Yorktown, Jamestown, and Williamsburg, Va., comes to a stellar conclusion with an eye-popping Fourth of July celebration. Back Where It All Began

HISTORYLAND, VA » Cruising the shoreline for colonial mansions along Virginia's Northern Neck becomes a fascinating exercise in uncertainty. All Aboard the Historyland Express

IRVINGTON, VA »  After nearly a decade away from this tiny Virginia town, the author returns to find that his favorite places are better than ever. Putting the Inns in Irvington

KILMARNOCK, VA »  Four peaceful creeks and one lovely old Virginia town--a Fleets Bay package deal. Fleet Week  

KINSALE, VA » It's easy to visit Kinsale; but beware, this little town on Virginia's Yeocomico River is the kind that makes you want to stay for good. Luck of the Irish

LYNNHAVEN RIVER  »  Now sailing a lower-profile Cape Dory, our man in Tidewater finally gets his chance to explore Virginia's sprawling, splendid Lynnhaven River. The Lynnhaven at Last

MATHEWS, VA » Once one of the Bay's most productive shipbuilding centers, Mathews, Va., today is working toward a maritime comeback with hopes of reviving its waterfront for recreational boaters. Second Coming

MOBJACK BAY, VA » There's more water than land on the point that marks the northern tip of Virginia's Mobjack Bay, and that's just how the folks who live there like it. Land's End

MOBJACK BAY, VA » Visiting Mobjack Bay's B&Bs by boat means sleeping in the lap of luxury while wading knee-deep through Virginia history. It Does a Body Good

NANSEMOND RIVER, VA »  Way up the curvy and quiet Nansemond River lies downtown Suffolk, Va., which comes with a small town feel, great restaurants, museums, a new marina and a grandkid-friendly festival extraordinaire.  All Aboard the Winding River

NEWPORT NEWS, VA »  It may look like nothing but big-port muscle and sinew, but don't let that throw you; there's charm aplenty, if you know where to look, in good ol' New Port Newce. The News from Newport News  

NORFOLK, VA » When it comes to offering plenty of action for a family that needs to stretch some sea legs, Norfolk is a sure thing. Shore Leave

THE NORTHERN NECK OF VA » A beautiful plan gets blown off the charts, but a last-minute detour and a good car heater combine to produce a workable Plan B. Cruising Through History, One Musem at a Time

OCCOQUAN, VA »  Quirky shops and restaurants, art galleries, two centuries of history and - lo and behold! - seven feet of water await the wandering boater in tiny Occoquan, Va., off the Potomac River. Mill Town Magic

ONANCOCK, VA » For over 300 years, Onancock has been a cultural and economic hub on Virginia's Eastern Shore. And it seems to just keep getting better. Hidden Treasure

PORTSMOUTH, VA » Rife with history, beautiful architecture, art, music and great marinas, Portsmouth, Va. is a natural complement to the big-city bustle of Norfolk. The City Across the River

RICHMOND, VA »  Virginia's capital city was the destination, but getting there on the lovely and winding James River was of course half the fun. To Richmond, James
RAPPAHANNOCK RIVER »  There's alot of Rappahannock beyond Tappahannock. A trailer, a Whaler and a thermos of hot coffee is all our resident naturalist needs to explore the twists and turns of the upper Rapp. Above and Beyond

RICHMOND, VA » Virginia's capital city was the destination, but getting there on the lovely and winding James River was of course half the fun. To Richmond, James

Not the ocean, not the Bay, Rudee Inlet sweeps boaters into a world all its own. A Weekend with Rudee

SMITHFIELD, VA » Known best for its eponymous pork, Smithfield, Va., is a cruising destination and historic seaport that can satisfy a variety of tastes. Hot Times in Ham Town

TANGIER ISLAND, VA » They'd already sailed to Tangier Island and made the obligatory tourist stops. This time, the author and his wife came armed with a pair of kayaks and found birds and beaches beyond expectation. Tangier, Naturally

Just an old sweet song-and 35 miles of river-put this small Rappahannock town on the list of favorite cruises. Tappahannock on My Mind

URBANNA, VA » Packed with cozy places and wonderfully charming people, this Tidewater Virginia town can give Heaven a run for its money. The Five People You Meet in Urbanna

WICOMICO RIVER, VA » It was billed as a holiday tour of homes on the Little Wicomico River, but just cruising on the boats that got you there was- worth the price of admission. Little River Christmas

YORKTOWN, VA » A jazzed up waterfront "village" and a spiffy new transient marina offer boaters a chance to get up close and personal with the town that ended a war and began a nation. Yorktown by the Sea


ANACOSTIA RIVER » Washington's hard luck Anacostia River may also be the city's ace in the hole.  The Bad and the Beautiful